Syria: police state, Middle East jewel

People are incredibly generous. Last night I attended a concert to raise money for the children of Gaza. Sir Colin Davis, the 81-year-old conductor, and the English Chamber Orchestra gave their services free, and the Barbican in London provided the venue.

The redoubtable Syrian ambassador provided the support for getting it staged, with what seems a vast Syrian diaspora in attendance.

I found myself thinking about Syria – dismissed as a state sponsor of terror, yet to visit, a hidden jewel in a Middle East ravaged by war. I thought of the more than 1 million Iraqi refugees she hosts – not in camps but in homes belonging to Syrian families (in this connection I have included below my interview last year with the Syrian foreign minister, Walid Moallem).

There are many dimensions to the place: police state, Israeli foe, Hezbollah supporter. But fundamentally, on the ground, amazing people with an incredible history.

Damascus is the best preserved of Arab capitals, Aleppo host to a myriad Christian churches, Palmyra the best preserved Roman remains in the region (see image). The mysterious “dead cities” and the crusader fort Crac des Chevaliers. We are entering the season of wild flowers in Syria that lasts until the early summer heat.

These are the thoughts that wash over you as you listen to Mozart and Haydn. Ugh, I find Haydn far from uplifting. By far the best piece last night was an incredible fusion of English plainsong chant and three gifted Arab soloists singing in their musical vernacular.

The English element was performed by The Clerks. The piece was called Qudduson and will be performed somewhere again tonight, and then in June. Look out for it.

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